skip to main |
skip to sidebar
I remember the first time Erik and I came to Isla Mujeres. It was a surprise Christmas present for him. The tickets were free (the only perk of my previous job) and we rented Bob & Wayne's place (which, btw, I highly recommend!). Erik had never traveled outside of the U.S. except to London for business (with a side trip thrown in to Amsterdam- of course!). I had previously lived in Belize and traveled some in the Yucatan and Guatemala while living there. I knew for his first trip I didn't want to overwhelm him but, without completely offending some people who may be reading this, let's just say Cancun is NOT our style. I think it was a fluke that I found Isla Mujeres...and it was described in a travel book as a sleepy fishing village off the coast of Cancun. Perfect I thought. This was 4 years ago. That first night we arrived I distinctly remember sitting on some logs down on the beach across from Jax with tears streaming down my face. Erik, completely perplexed, asked me what was wrong. "This isn't a sleepy fishing village." I said. To him though, it was...that is, until we went to the deserted beaches of Tulum days later when he looked at me and said "now I know why you were crying...THIS is a sleepy fishing village." And a year and a half later when we bused Mexico, Belize & Guatemala he REALLY knew what I meant.Now, any of you Isla-holics reading this, don't hate me...I get why you like the place...and this is only my opinion. It just ain't no sleepy fishing village anymore...that's for sure (and yes, I know the colonias are a whole other world). And boy, had I known how much had changed between then and now...I would have quite possibly said it was sleepy then. Yes, I get that they rely on tourism...so these monstrosities that are popping up are helping the economy- i guess. call me crazy, i just can't make myself like them. I mean really...a place called Privilege...that advertises "feeling privilege?" Crap...if I stayed there I'd be ashamed of the privileges afforded me. Again, this is my blog, and MY opinion...I love the locals of Isla Mujeres, and think they are some of the hardest working people I know...I guess what I can't wrap my mind around is that they are trying to please this "cancun " image of tourists- and perhaps because we have led them to believe that's what we want. And yes, some people DO want that...but that's what I thought Cancun was for. I mean really....I'm staying at Francis Arlene - a place Erik and I stayed on our second trip and really liked (and still do)- and I have heard music blaring...I'm not exaggerating...until 3:30am in the morning from, get this...a club across and down the street named Libido! Really?!?!? Who even walks into a club named that? I honestly considered leaving and going back to Merida for the remainder of my stay...if it weren't a 4.5hr bus ride each way, I probably would be there now.I just find it interesting that when I first planned this trip I purposefully put Merida at the beginning thinking: it's a big, busy city...I'll want to do that all first so I can just come to Isla and relax. I suppose if I thought hearing blaring music, obnoxious drunk tourists screaming in the street until 3:30am (yes, I've checked the clock both nights) and hearing nothing but American music at every beach bar I sit at, and more English being spoken than Spanish, was my idea of relaxing then...(then again, this is coming from a treehugging, latte drinking elitist- so says McCain- ha! perhaps I'm just cranky because I haven't slept at all because...oh yeah, because of the above!)Don't get me wrong...I have enjoyed doing "nothing" at Playa Sol- despite the overpriced drinks - soaking up the sun, reading, and playing in the crystal blue waters..that part of Isla can't be beat. I could just do without the "cancunification" of it all...I suspect it's inevitable, being so close to the mainland, and I fear Tulum beaches may fall prey to the same fate. I can honestly say though, that my 10 days in a city of 1.6 million people was WAY more relaxing than this has been so far.
My apologies to any of those I may have offended. I know those of you who love Isla, love it fiercely...and I don't blame you. The locals here are wonderful, the fish is great, the beaches can't be beat. This isn't meant as a post to bash Isla. We each need our place, and I believe I have found mine.
*****************************************************************
Ok, lest you all think I'm a sourpuss, I AM having a good time. I hadn't so much as opened a book since arriving even though I brought two with me and since being on Isla I have already finished two books (not the ones I originally brought - muchos gracias mi amiga Gim)
Today I'm going to have my laundry done...not because I necessarily need to but it will be nice to come home and not have to do it all...and, as we all know, it will be great having my clothes smell, at least for a while, like Mexico!
I'll leave you with a few Isla photos...I still have so much to write about Merida and more pictures from there to post as well...I don't know however if I'll post again before leaving on Wednesday morning...I can only take this ESPN so long (but I've done my darndest to tune it out)...oh, i did see a sign last night in the main square that said they now have free wi-fi there! Wow- that is great...except there are no trees and i'm not so sure I want to sit in this tropical sun and try to type- let alone see my screen!
I will post more upon my return (and who knows, there still be another post coming while I'm here) but in the meantime I'll leave you with these photos... (oh, and really? no one knows what Piss Whistler is?)
you really can't beat the blue of the caribbean
who's ugly feet are those, anyways?
mmmm, a mango smoothie
sunset...at sunset
Earlier this week I met what I have a feeling will be lifelong friends who may regret they ever mentioned they have a spare room! Piss Whistler and Her Husband - from here on out known as PS and PSH - are who I see myself being in a few (+ some?) years. They lived a content life in Minnesota (accent and all) running a farm with horse drawn sleigh rides in the winters (disclaimer: this is my account, and PS & PSH feel free to correct anything!). They visited Merida once and fell in love - not with each other, that had happened some years ago, but with Merida itself. So much so that on that very first trip they purchased a home here and less than a year and a half later they are living here full time!PS and PSH are two people I truly admire (and envy!)...sure, I've only known them what? a couple of days? But it's just like this city...there is a vibe (ok, I really don't like using that word, it's just what keeps coming out- I must find a better word) and theirs is one I completely get (they may beg to differ!). Sure they are "gringos" so it's not like I've befriended "true" mexicans (whatever that means) - but you know what? so far all of the "gringos" (you know who you are!) I have met in Merida embody all that is Mexico. I think there is a certain type of person who is drawn to Merida (tilted, right Jim?) and while I can't explain it, it speaks volumes about the person.After PS and PSW invited me to dinner that first night of meeting them I got to thinking - when I met them I had been drinking a quite strong margarita...maybe they were some crazies, and as 7:30pm approached on monday (the time they were to pick me up from the Luz and take me to their home for pre-dinner drinks) I started thinking "am I fool? they were probably just being nice, they aren't really going to show up" not to mention, it was a monsoon outside! I started eating my Pringles (my travel staple food) in case that was how my night ended. But...the DID show up. And PW even gave me the front seat of their Bronco saying "we don't want you to think we're some crazies coming to kidnap you!"We headed to their home (which was beautiful btw) and a friend of theirs, we'll call her PWF (Piss Whistler's friend) came along as well. We then headed to Los Almos (shoot, I might have the wrong name of the restaurant...will correct later when I check). It was a restaurant listed on the "recommended" sheet the Luz gives you when you check in, but I had been hesitant to go because it was described as having a "romantic setting" Needless to say, we had a wonderful evening (speaking for myself of course...for all I know they were thinking "why the heck did we invite this girl?!") and as the evening progressed PWF said, "you know, i've already celebrated Thanksgiving with some friends, would you like me to drive you to Uxmal on Thanksgiving?" I of course, accepted immediately!Uxmal, the Maya ruin (side note: something I just learned and have been guilty of myself...Mayan only refers to the language) site that everyone, since my arrival has asked if i've been to. I passed up Chichen Itza in favor of Celestun, and perhaps that was a mistake, but I felt as though I would have been going merely to say i did. Anyways, PWF has lived here for at least 8 years (she's actually a Mexican citizen) and from what I can tell so far is an amazing and genuine human being- I wouldn't have accepted the offer if I had thought otherwise.Back to PW and PWH. They were headed to the Yucatan State Fair today...where they have a snow hill! Yes, you read that right. A. SNOW. hill. with real snow...well, you know, manufactured snow, but real ice.Maybe it's odd to dedicate an entire post to 2 gringos living in Mexico, especially after having just met them, but like I said before, it speaks to this place - Merida - and once you've been to Merida it speaks volumes as to the type of people PW & PWH are.PW & PWH...thank you. Than you for opening your home and your friendship to me...it is greatly appreciated and warmly held.***I wrote this several days ago..just now getting around to posting it. I made several friendships like PW/PWH while in Merida, and something tells me none of them have seen the last of me!***BONUS POINT for anyone who knows what a Piss Whistler is...and DOUBLE BONUS POINTS to anyone who can say Piss Whistler after having a few margaritas! :)
Any of you that have traveled here will understand. I finally found where the Mexicans are putting all of the...
LOL...need I say more? (well, probably for anyone who hasn't traveled here, but I guess you'll just have to come down to know what I'm talking about!)I'm now on Isla and just as I said, at 3:00 on the dot I was at Picus with my feet in the sand and...well, it wasn't a Sol, but just as good
Isla is nice...the blue blue water, and white sandy beaches can't be beat, but I'd be lying if I didn't say that I left a bit of my soul in Merida and wish I were still there. I met so many wonderful people (you know who you all are) and I can't even begin to put into words everything that Merida means to me.I have a bit of a heavy heart today - for several reasons - so I have to admit I'm not much in the mood for posting anything about Isla at the moment. After all, I don't think any of you come here to read something depressing! But, since I'm here at Jax paying for my drinks in order to get free internet I will post about Piss Whistler since I've already written the post on paper. I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving and was able to take a moment to realize how truly blessed we really are!
Yesterday I finally made it to the market, and wow, is it ever a market! I figure it deserves its own post. I know I have said several times that my photos aren't doing justice to the subject...well, that couldn't be more true than with these market photos. It is an extremely busy, crammed, and dark indoor market, and with my little point and shoot I just couldn't get those amazing market photos everyone wants. But...they aren't half bad and they might give you some idea.
I spent at least an hour there and probably saw 1/8 of it...it is HUGE...and seemed as though you could get lost in the maze.
One of the first things I came upon when entering was the live animal section. I took pictures, but I have decided not to post them. It was actually quite disturbing to see these animals caged up and I don't feel that I need to expose you all to them if you don't want to see that kind of thing. If any of you would like to see them so you know what I'm talking about, I'm more than happy to send a few to you. I think probably what made it the hardest for me was the bunnies...hundreds...and they were probably 50 to a cage. I'm still not sure exactly if they were for sale as pets, or for food....all I do know is that they were not healthy...especially sad since Erik and I have 2 rabbits at home as pets that often roam the house freely. Among other animals en mass were birds (parrots, finches, parakeets, etc.) turkeys, ducks, gerbils, and about the cutest darn puppies you've ever seen. I had visions of those movies you see where the person breaks into a research lab and releases all the "test" animals. I thought about it for a quick minute and then realized I'm not so sure those animals would be any better off "free" at that moment in that place. Needless to say, it was a low point of what otherwise has been an incredible trip.
But, then I moved on to the rest of the market and was in awe...
Perhaps a lot of the vendors ride motorcycles to the market?
There were literally hundreds of dollies lined up
A kilo of huevos anyone?
the stand where i purchased 2 limes
see what i mean about how narrow and crowded it is?
I don't know why, but I have a thing about empty coke bottles...
doesn't everyone need a virgin mary lit up for christmas? (one should buy stock in mexican christmas lights...they are everywhere!)
the thing about the market isn't just that it's a LOT of stalls...but it's stand after stand of the same thing for rows...shoes, bags, christmas lights, fruit/veggies, seafood, beans and...
stall after stall of spices...this gentleman gave me a sample bag of something- he didn't speak english and all i know is it's a spice of some kind (i guess i'll find out when i get home and try it on something!)...and he wouldn't let me pay for it no matter how hard i tried...just another reason this place is so wonderful
I've got so much to write about...including Piss Whistler and her Husband, and the amazing day I had today with Jim, but those posts may need to wait a day or two...tomorrow- Thanksgiving, I am headed to Uxmal with a wonderful woman (there's a great story about how this trip came about) and then I leave Friday at 9am for a bus to Cancun with hopes of having my feet in the sand, a Sol in my hand, and pico at Picus by 3pm. So...I'm unsure if I'll get a chance to post before I head for Isla...but one never knows...Hasta Luego!
I'm a bit behind on uploading pictures and posting...today is a bit stormy- cloudy, windy, rainy...HUMID. So, I figured I'd do a photo dump with a few comments here and there...enjoy!
I think I could take 1,000 pictures and I'd still see a different/new building that caught my eye!
Yes, that is a Burger King...and there is a McDonalds...and I hear there are 3 Starbucks, however I have yet to see them...I think they are in the northern part of the city (rich) where the malls are
There are parks everywhere...
There are also magazine stands on many corners...i think they sell all sorts of magazines, but if you just glance it appears to be only "girly" mags ;)
and after looking at those mags, you go to church!
Deb, recognize this?! Not sure how the person got the picture you grabbed- I stood there for at least 15 minutes and there was NEVER not a stream of cars going by!
a few interesting things i've learned about the homes down here1. don't be deceived by what you see on the outside...you have no idea what it's like on the inside. Apparently a lot of people, locals included, will restore the interior of their home but leave the exterior looking, shall i say, worn. That way one wouldn't know from the street they had money, etc. (I have no idea if that's the case with this home, it's just a picture I like!)
2. you can have the facade of your home restored for free...all you have to do is pay for the materials!
just some stairs
Oh...I had to move rooms today (since I added on 3 more nights) and this room, if you can believe it, is even better than the first. I now have my own private rooftop balcony. Here's my view:
Ok, just a few more and I'll be done with this long post- not because I don't have more pictures, or more to say...but it's about that time to go get myself some guac and a cold cerveza! Here are the ONLY pictures I was able to take yesterday at Celestun...remember, my battery died :( (mom, if you actually click on the pictures with the birds it will blow up the picture and you'll be able to see them better) We passed 2 small mayan towns/villages on the way. This is a typical Mayan home in Uman
and here are some white pelicans (they come from up my way and "winter" down here)- can you spot the solo flamingo?!
and here is the largest grouping of flamingos we saw- you can't get very close because if they are frightened they can break their neck, and also, you don't want to disturb them as they need to feed 12 hours a day! Due to the recents storms there weren't too many to be seen...apparently some days you can see hundreds if not thousands- oh well...it was still cool, and i can now say i am a proud owner of a tacky pink flamingo (it will go perfectly next to "hutch" right Kimberly?)!
Ok, really, only a few more! these are just 3 random shots I took on my walk to get lunch this afternoon (which by the way, cost me a whopping $35pesos including tip):confession- i thought this meant some sort of cuban cigar or something until i just translated it on my computer---I seriously need to learn my spanish! (you can stop laughing now)
you've got mail
this intrigued me...I wish they had been open!
Alright, really, I'm done for now...but stay tuned for the next post about the piss whistler and her husband!
Just a quick non-Merida post because I just received an email from Greg Mortenson letting me know his new book is being released on December 1st. If you know who Greg is and have already read Three Cups of Tea then you know what an amazing person he is and surely understand my excitement that he has put out another book. If you don't know who he is...you need to find out NOW by clicking the links above! Here's a post ,from an old blog which I haven't updated in over a year (I'm thinking I need to pick it up again), that explains my personal connection with this.
*if you purchase the book via the link above a portion will go towards his organization.
Indeed it is! Just a quick post before I'm off to dinner with some friends I met yesterday.
Small world case in point #1:
Sitting by myself eating dinner last night and ask the waiter how much the horse drawn carriages are...he doesn't understand me and an American couple at the next table answer my question. They then ask if they can join me. Who am I to say no?!
We get to talking and I find out they came down here for the first time ever about a year and a half ago and on that very trip bought a home...they did not come with that intention! They are renovating and have only been living here full time for the past 2 months. As our conversation continued I mentioned that I am headed to Isla Mujeres after my time in Merida and they say, "Oh, we have some friends who live on Isla Mujeres." Seriously, that is all they had said, and I said "Their names don't happen to be Bob & Wayne do they?" Why I said this I have no idea...I mean really, what are the chances? (side note: the first time I was in Isla, Erik and I rented Bob & Wayne's place for a week). Wouldn't ya know...sure enough their friends on Isla ARE Bob and Wayne! We continued to talk a bit more and they invited me to their house tonight for a few drinks and then out to dinner at a place they highly recommend. Again, how could I say no? Now, mind you, I am supposed to leave tomorrow for Isla...on my walk back to my room last night after dinner I got to thinking...Isla can wait...I really love it here in Merida and feel like I have barely even scratched the surface so...I promptly walked into the office and asked if I could extend my stay here through Friday. So there you have it...I will be in Merida for Thanksgiving!
Small World case in point #2:
Today I went to Celestun (my camera battery died about 5 pictures in!). I arranged the day trip through my hotel and it turns out it was just me and one other person. A Mexican woman named Elizabeth from Mexico City. It's about an hour drive, and thankfully she spoke very good English...we got to talking and when I said I lived in Seattle she said "Oh, Microsoft! I work for them." Ok, really? This is too crazy. For those of you who don't know...I work for the Gates Foundation...essentially this woman and I work for the same person! Not only that, but she's been to Seattle (last February of all things- poor girl- what a miserable time to be there, and last February especially), stayed in Bellevue, etc. We exchanged emails as she took pictures since I couldn't, and she may be back in Seattle for a conference this winter.
I'll post more pictures and stories tomorrow, but I'll leave you with this one...Ha!
don't ask
